Why visit São Tomé city
With around 70,000 people, São Tomé is one of Africa’s smallest capitals and feels more like a provincial port. It curves around Ana Chaves Bay, where fishing canoes are pulled up beside the seafront avenue and the stone fort of São Sebastião has guarded the anchorage since 1575.
The centre is a compact grid of Portuguese-era buildings in peeling pink, blue and yellow: the cathedral, the Presidential Palace, old trading houses and a market that spills into the surrounding streets. It takes a day to see properly, and it is the place to sort out money, a SIM card and a driver before heading into the island.
It is also the best place in the country to eat and to taste what the islands grow. Italian agronomist Claudio Corallo makes a celebrated chocolate here from cocoa grown on Príncipe, and the CACAU cultural centre brings together art, crafts and live music.
How long to stay
One full day covers the sights. Most visitors spend the first and last night here and one or two more as a base for day trips to the north coast and Monte Café.
Where to base yourself
The larger hotels line the seafront between the centre and the airport, a short taxi ride from the fort. Simpler guesthouses are in the centre, within walking distance of the market and the bay.
São Tomé City highlights
- Fort São Sebastião and the National Museum
- Sunset on the seafront of Ana Chaves Bay
- The colour and noise of the municipal market
- A guided chocolate tasting with Claudio Corallo
- Art, crafts and music at the CACAU cultural centre
- Grilled fish and calulu at a city restaurant
