Why visit the south
The south is where São Tomé looks most like the cover of an adventure novel. Rainfall here is several times that of the capital, the forest comes down to the sea, and out of it rises Pico Cão Grande — the “Great Dog Peak” — a dark column of volcanic rock more than 370 metres tall, its tip at 663 metres above sea level often trailing cloud.
The drive down is half the experience. The east-coast road passes Roça Água Izé, where large-scale cocoa growing began, the blowhole of Boca do Inferno and the surf of Praia das Sete Ondas, before reaching São João dos Angolares, home of the Angolar people and of a plantation house famous for its cooking.
Past the peak, the road ends at the fishing village of Porto Alegre. Around it are the island’s loveliest beaches: Praia Inhame, the rock pools of Praia Piscina and Praia Jalé, where sea turtles nest from about November to March. From here boats cross to Ilhéu das Rolas.
How long to stay
It can be done as a very long day from the capital, but two or three nights in a southern eco-lodge turn a road trip into the highlight of the island.
Where to base yourself
Stay near Porto Alegre for beaches, turtles and Rolas; in or near São João dos Angolares for food and a mid-way stop; or at Santana on the east coast for resort comfort within reach of the capital.
Pico Cão Grande & the South highlights
- The first sight of Pico Cão Grande from the road
- Lunch at Roça São João dos Angolares
- Waves exploding through Boca do Inferno
- A swim in the natural pools of Praia Piscina
- Watching turtles nest at Praia Jalé (in season)
- A canoe trip through the Malanza mangroves
