Why visit the north coast
Drive twenty minutes north-west of the capital and the island changes character. The mountains block the rain, so instead of jungle there is golden grassland dotted with baobabs and tamarinds, and the sea is calm and clear. This is where Santomeans come to the beach at weekends.
The headline stop is Lagoa Azul, a small bay of startlingly blue water below a lighthouse, with good snorkelling over the rocks. On the way are the long sands of Praia dos Tamarindos and Praia das Conchas, the turtle-nesting beach at Morro Peixe, and — just inland — Roça Agostinho Neto, the most monumental plantation complex on the island.
Beyond Lagoa Azul the road hugs black-rock coves to Neves, a workaday fishing town famous for its santola crab, then continues through a short rock tunnel and past the monument marking the Portuguese landing at Anambó, until the tarmac ends at Santa Catarina.
How long to stay
A day trip from the capital sees the main sights. Staying a night or two at an eco-lodge near Neves lets you add a turtle watch, hikes into the foothills and the far end of the coast road.
Where to base yourself
Most people visit from São Tomé city. The few places to stay on the coast itself are small lodges around Neves, generally booked directly rather than through large platforms.
North Coast highlights
- Snorkelling in the clear water of Lagoa Azul
- Baobabs and savanna on the island’s dry side
- The grand hospital and avenue of Roça Agostinho Neto
- Night-time turtle watching at Morro Peixe (in season)
- A lunch of santola crab in Neves
- The coast road to its end at Santa Catarina
